
Stripboard tips
This article contains all the Stripboard tips I’ve found over the years. Although it’s been around for a long time, stripboard is still a very useful way to build electronic circuits.
If you need convincing of that check out my post Stripboard advantages and disadvantages. There are not really any instructions for using it though. You just kind of get on with it. After years of using stripboard for electronic circuit construction, there are certain things I do that may be useful for others. Especially if you are just starting out so I’ve compiled a list of stripboard tips to help you.
Laying out stripboard circuits
Laying out stripboard circuits is a whole subject on its own and as such, I’ve created an entire post on this subject.
You can read it here on how to use stripboard if you want more detail and some helpful tips. The best way to design a stripboard layout is to use Stripboard software. You can throw away all that graph paper and those erasers.
Stripboard tips – Stripboard software
My biggest tip for using stripboard is to use a software design tool. There are several about and I’ve tried a few of them. I have a post on that very subject here, Veroboard circuit layout design software, however, the one I use is LochMaster. I get on better with it and find it much quicker than the rest. You do have to pay for it but at £40 I think it’s good value. I use it every time I start a stripboard project.

If you are looking for free stripboard design software there are a few around. One of them is Verodes free stripboard layout software.
Apart from being able to lay circuits out, you can quickly edit them and move parts and links around.
You can also create custom boards which I found particularly useful as I had some stripboards for prototyping IC circuits with extra strips for power running up and down the board. I was able to create these stripboards in the design.
Stripboard tips – Stripboard component overlays
Probably the most useful function though is to be able to print out black and white component overlays.
The LochMaster software has a very good calibration page so you can get your printer to print out an exact-size overlay to make all the holes line up. You then stick this over the blank stripboard.
Using these you can be sure that your cut tracks are in the correct places and it’s easy to see where the components go. These are two of the major causes of stripboard projects not working. Components in the wrong places and tracks cut in the wrong places.

With a component overlay, it really does make it easy to get everything right the first time.
I wanted to build four identical voltage-controlled oscillators on large stripboards. I built them using four identical printouts and stuck them to the Stripboards before starting construction.
All four oscillators worked the first time. I would have found this almost impossible to do without the component overlay printouts.
With the software, you can kiss goodbye to graph paper and erasers as well. This was my previous way of designing stripboard layouts!
Stripboard tips – Cutting stripboard
As stripboard comes in standard sizes there will probably be occasions when you want to cut it. Many people just use a knife to score it and then bend it hoping it cracks in the right places.
This isn’t ideal and it can lead to the copper tracks getting pulled off.

The way I cut the stripboard is by using an old tile saw that was unused in the garage. I bought it when I tiled the kitchen and after that, it had remained unused. I tried it to see if it would cut PCBs and it did. It’s just like a mini table saw for PCB and stripboard. It cuts neatly and at right angles so you always end up with a nice square cut. For more details check out my guide on cutting stripboard.
Stripboard tips – Cutting stripboard tracks
When you use stripboard you will need to cut some tracks. There is a proper tool for this, however, I prefer to use a scalpel. Using this method I can cut the track between holes. This means you don’t waste a hole for cutting a track. With this method, you can save a little space and it all helps with stripboard layouts.
When you have cut the tracks, inspect them visually to remove any stray bits of copper that could cause shorts. I usually check the cut with a multimeter as well just to confirm that there is no connection. It’s always a good idea while the multimeter is out to check that the tracks on either side of the cut one aren’t shorted by copper offcuts and debris. For more information check out my post, cutting stripboard tracks.

One of the problems with stripboard circuits not working correctly is tracks not being properly cut where there needs to be a break.
Another of the problems with stripboard is cutting the track in the wrong place it’s easy to do with counting and turning the board over. I use a printed component overlay as I mentioned in the layout section and poke a PCB drill bit through the place where the track should be cut and mark the back with a pen this way all your cuts will be in the right place.
Soldering on stripboard
Soldering on a stripboard is slightly different to soldering on a PCB. The copper strips conduct heat away so you might need to increase the temperature of your iron to compensate.
If you are a newcomer to soldering be sure to check out my post learn how to solder – a beginner’s guide and also set the correct temperature.

Also, bear in mind that there is no solder resist between the tracks like there is with a lot of new PCBs so be careful you don’t create solder bridges between adjacent tracks.
I usually double-check with a magnifier and a multimeter for this occurrence.
Another problem with stripboard circuits not working is solder bridges between tracks.
Stripboard tips connecting wires to stripboards
For connections off the stripboard, I try to use gold-plated single inline pins. The type that you get in long strips and cut down. You can get non-gold-plated ones but they aren’t significantly cheaper so I don’t bother with them.
You can then plug connectors into them.
I use the ones that are called Arduino tall headers they are .1 inch or 2.54mm spacing so they fit the stripboard and being tall means they have long enough legs to solder.
This not only means you can disconnect your wiring without desoldering but it also saves the tracks from lifting away from the board. This can happen if you soldered wires and they move a lot. The pins provide mechanical stability.
I also use the Arduino tall headers to connect stripboards together one on top of another. They usually come in a strip of 8 connections.
Stripboard tips for using high-current
The stripboard isn’t designed to carry huge currents. If you are planning to build a circuit such as a power supply or an audio power amplifier you may have a current of more than an amp flowing on the stripboard.
Stripboard may be able to work with an amp or so flowing but with some imported boards using thinner copper, you might not be so lucky.

If you have a track with a higher current flow you can solder a tinned copper wire to the back of the track. If you have space you can use two tracks adjacent to each other and solder tinned copper wire to both of them.
For more information check out my post stripboard current for more detailed information.
Stripboard tips – IC sockets
Always use sockets for ICs. It makes it so much easier to substitute another device in the event of any problems.

Tip – Always use IC sockets
The cost is minuscule compared to the ICs and there’s no easier way to check if an IC is working.
You just unplug it from a socket and plug it into another one.
Stripboard tips – Types of stripboard
It might surprise you to find out that there various different types of stripboard. Apart from coming in different sizes, there are also different designs. Some have power rails, which are particularly useful if you have a lot of ICS to mount. I have another post on what’s the best stripboard so you can see what’s available.

Summary of stripboard tips
Stripboard is relatively simple to use. Hopefully, by following these tips you will find some of them useful when it comes to building stripboard circuits. Of all of them, I would say without a doubt the best is to use some form of design software.
As I have mentioned I use LochMaster which is worth the purchase price just for the ability to be able to produce scaled component overlays.
If you have even the slightest interest in things stripboard-related then check out my post, Stripboards – the complete guide. I’m sure you’ll pick up at least one tip to either save you time or money!

“Hi, I’m Graham Moore and I’ve been building electronic projects since I was 12. I had a fascination for old radios and taking them to pieces but when my Nan bought me an electric soldering iron, I realised with a few components I could build stuff.
Learning to solder opened up many doors for me as electronics also became a career. I hope you get as much from it as i did”.
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